A
span of 450 years of colonial experience has provided Goa with numerous
cultural interactions from many regions and countries of the world. These
cultural interactions, be they in food, music, art etc, have enriched the Goan
culture in ways that many of us may not know. Influences from Persia, Africa
and Europe inter alia are little
known facts. In the architecture of Goan churches, these influences, be they
Islamic/Islamicate, Persian and European have fairly been numerous as is
suggested by scholarly research, particularly by Dr. Paulo Varela Gomes’ latest
book Whitewash, Red Stone: A History of Church Architecture in Goa (2011. New Delhi: Yoda Press). But what if this
centuries-old heritage in the form of church buildings and the art they house is
not preserved and is withering due to ravages of time, neglect and the elements?
Agnelo Fernandes (C), Nickson (R) and Glen (L) |
The answer to preserve and protect
our heritage is obviously to conserve and restore such buildings and art. But
since Goa is a small place with too many churches and specimens of art and
since every one of us has seen such buildings and art being neglected and
destroyed, such a situation merits the asking of a very pertinent question: do
we have the skill and the consciousness required to preserve our heritage? A
common complain in Goa is konn monis nant
or there are no skilled people that are easily available. But I feel such a
view results from our own ignorance of the people involved in
conservation/restoration of sacred art as well as the failure of such people in
building networks that would facilitate the movement of information.
The altar of the Quepem church that needs restoration |
Agnelo Fernandes and his two sons
Nickson and Glen are engaged in the conservation and restoration of sacred art
heritage. Originally hailing from Borda but now settled in Arlem, Margao Agnelo
Fernandes’ tradition of restoration and conservation stretches back to his
great-grandfather; making Nickson and Glen the fourth generation heirs to carry
forward the family tradition. Agnelo and his sons are fondly known as the Bicos because it was the nickname of
Caetano Fernandes, who had started this family tradition. The Bicos are a very
passionate lot about their trade. One could go on-and-on listening to them – especially
Agnelo Fernandes –about their latest projects and other experiences of the past.
When I visited them, the first thing Agnelo Fernandes and his sons did was to
bring one specimen after another and explain to me the technique and patience
that went in working on each art object.
We settled down to chat about
various issues that I was most interested to learn from them. Agnelo Fernandes,
the father is not much of a talker. I got the impression that he prefers to
allow his work and art to speak for him. Nickson on the other hand is the most articulate
and illustrative. It was from the experience of Agnelo Fernandes and his sons
that I wanted to know what are the hurdles and problems that are faced by them.
How do the lay people react and respond to their own heritage and why it is
important for us to urgently start thinking about creative ways to take the
issue of the heritage, and particularly of sacred art, right to the people.
The painting in the sacristy of Quepem Church needing restoration |
According to Agnelo Fernandes and
his sons, the interior decoration of the Quepem church is “unique” and “rare”
in Goa. The church need not be destroyed, Nickson says, as it would be a
mistake. They are of the unanimous opinion that the beautiful, gold-gilded
altar should be conserved and reinforced as it is about to be spoilt.
“It [conservation and restoration]
is a long process and people need to be educated,” Nickson says when asked
about why such projects are not taken more freely by the lay parishioners. “Lay
people have no knowledge of restoration/conservation and they want something
new,” he further adds. ‘New’ in the sense of how lay people desire the end
result to be jazzy and kitschy.
If Agnelo and his sons try to argue
otherwise, then the oft-repeated pretentious phrase ‘We are paying’ is directed
at them. If such is the behaviour of the lay people, then what about the
priests of the churches that they have worked with? “Some of the priests want
to put their own tastes in the project,” they say. As a result Agnelo Fernandes
and his sons have walked away from many jobs for a reason that can be
euphemistically referred to as creative
differences!
Another painting which needs attention |
Our heritage and how we understand
and view it would define us as a community. With a cohesive and practical policy
regarding sacred heritage yet to be on a sound footing coupled with the general
apathy of the laity, it is high time that we start thinking of sustainable models
to preserve our heritage for the future
(A version of this article appeared on Gomantak Times, dt: July 14, 2012).
Beautiful post, but wouldn't it have been batter to display the work which is being done by 'Bicos' rather than showing what is not being done by them?
ReplyDeleteBy the way you have written that the ‘Bicos’ have done is painting and partial restoration of the Holy Cross Church in Quepem and they are of the opinion ‘They are of the unanimous opinion that the beautiful, gold-gilded altar should be conserved and reinforced…….’ You have also written that “Some of the priests want to put their own tastes in the project,” they say. As a result Agnelo Fernandes and his sons have walked away from many jobs for a reason that can be euphemistically referred to as creative differences!
If what is written is true then why did they destroy certain things from the Quepem Church while painting? Let me ask you a question: are you happy with the restoration work they have done?
I am sure of your positive reply; than touch your heart and explain:
1) Where are the 6 angels which were around that alter for times unknown?
2) What have they done to the Beautiful ‘Pulpit’?
Easy said than done, wake up! Let what you write make sense and reflect your wisdom.
Dear Sapna Sule, thank you for the comment and interest in my blog. You seem to have paid a visit to the Quepem Church, which is good to note. To your query of the pictures, I have requested the Bicos to provide me with pictures of their work in Cochin, Bombay, Mangalore and Quepem. I have so far not received them. On you second query, I have to disagree with you since the main pulpit is not painted over but a coat of wood primer is applied and clearly the work on the pulpit, near the main altar and the two niches in the transept area are in progress. We need to have patience, like the Bicos advice. I have full faith and confidence in their work. I hope you will pay a visit again to see the end results.
DeletePS: I don’t know if you have noticed the paintings of the Stations of the Cross, which were in a pathetic condition some years ago until they were restored by the Bicos.
"The most recent major project that Agnelo Fernandes and his sons have COMPLETED"
Deleteas written by you in your Blog says it all.
Wouldn't it have been wise to wait until the work is completed and then write your blog with beautiful work they have done in it's full glory?
Tks. for informing that the work is still going on, I hope they will complete it soon... (from April2012 till date....)
P.S. Although I am a Maharashtrean by birth, I am in Quepem since my marriage for the last 25 years, and I visit the Church Everyday......
Dear Sapna, I think you have misunderstood me. The Bicos had completed what they were asked to do, which did not include the restoration of the main altar. At the time of the interview there were no plans of restoring the altar. However, it is a good sign that the work is continuing. And I am sure you would agree! However, the point I tried to make was a larger one, that of developing new models of restoration/conservation of our heritage. I focused on the Bicos with the hope that others could start establishing networks, which can only happen through awareness.
DeleteRespected Mrs. Sapna Sule, I am Nickson Fernandes(Bico)
DeleteAs said by you that you have been staying in Quepem for the past 25 years, visiting the church almost everyday and showing concern towards the church and its art, I would have really appreciated if you would have come forward and spoken about your doubts to any one of us at the Church while the work was in progress.It was indeed humiliating that you jumped to conclusions saying that the work was not done properly.
I am a born Goan and will be in Goa forever, So please feel free to come forward to any of the 'Bicos' and clear your doubts. Thank you.